I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my NEW Axolotl Pattern ~> scroll down for step-by-step photos!

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***
The FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here.
It is NOT A FREE PATTERN.

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased the pattern can SEE how to sew an Axolotl toy (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Aristotle Axolotl sewing pattern!)

 

First choose some fabric…

You can sew Aristotle Axolotl from most fabrics…

AND you can
use any colour!

 

Right, let’s get sewing!

 

HEAD:

STEP 1

Sew the FACE PIECES together along the middle seam, from A – B.

 

STEP 2

Fold the FACE PIECES with the fabric right sides together, and sew the nostril darts closed.

TIP: I used a dark thread for this tutorial so you can SEE my stitching BUT it’s best to use a thread the same colour as your fabric to hide your stitching (so the stitching of the seams blends in!)!

 

STEP 3

Sew the CHIN PIECES together from B – C, along the front seam. (Don’t sew between C and D –  you need to leave the seam open there so it’s easy to sew the neck seam later!)

 

STEP 4a

Pin the FACE PIECES to the CHIN PIECES matching points E (on the sides) and B (at the front).

TIP: These curves look like they won’t fit together because they are different / opposite shapes (opposing curves). Don’t worry – just take it SLOWLY and use LOTS of pins! Start by pinning the pieces together at B (in the front) and E (on each side), then add pins in between. You’ll see they do fit!

 

 

 

STEP 4b

Sew the FACE PIECES to the CHIN PIECES from E – B – E.

TIP: This seam forms the shape of the Axolotl’s SMILE ~> clip it very well so the seam lies nice and smoothly. 😊

 

STEP 5a

Fold the CHIN PIECES with the fabric right sides together, and pin the chin darts closed.

 

 

STEP 5b

Sew the chin darts closed.

 

EYES:

STEP 6

If you are using CRAFT EYES insert these now. 

TIP: I have a tutorial to show you how to insert craft eyes on my blog.

 

GILLS:

STEP 7a

Sew the GILL PIECES together in pairs, leaving the neck seam edge open.

 

STEP 7b

Clip the seams well where they are really curved, especially if you are using a woven (non-stretchy) fabric like quilting cottons, then turn the GILLS right sides out.

TIP: I like to use a wooden chopstick to turn the seams. Run the end of the chopstick back and forth along the stitching inside the GILLS until the seam is nice and smooth.

 

STEP 8a

 Pin the GILLS so that the edge seam lies flat then stitch around the edge of the GILLS, 5mm ( ¼inch) in from the edge.

TIP: Please don’t leave out this step – it is VERY IMPORTANT – because it stops the GILLS from flopping!!! 

 

STEP 8b

Stuff the GILLS with a very small amount of toy stuffing – use just enough so they are not flat (but NOT too FAT or it will be hard to sew them in place). Pin the GILLS closed along the neck seam edge.

 

STEP 9a

Pin the GILLS to the FACE & CHIN PIECES along the neck seam, using the pattern markings to guide you with their position.

 

STEP 9b

STOP!!!!! Please double-check that you have the GILLS pinned the right way up – on both sides – before you sew them in place!

 

Don’t sew 1
upside down ~>

like I did! 😂

 

 

 

STEP 9c

Sew the GILLS in place with a 3mm(⅛ inch) seam allowance. (This will stop the GILLS slipping when you sew the neck seam later).

 

ARMS:

STEP 10a

Sew the ARM PIECES together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open.

 

 

 

STEP 10b

Clip the seam allowance especially where it is very curved between the ‘fingers’, and turn the ARM PIECES right sides out. 

 

TIP: Use a turning tool / chopstick again to turn the seams out nicely. 

 

STEP 10c

Stuff the ARMS and pin them closed at the straight edge. 

 

LEGS:

STEP 11a

Sew the LEG PIECES together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open.

 

 

STEP 11b

Clip the seams, especially where they are very curved between the ‘toes’, and turn the LEG PIECES right sides out. (Use the chopstick / turning tool again to turn the seams nicely). Stuff the LEGS and pin them closed at the straight edge.

 

BODY – ONE SIDE AT A TIME!

STEP 12a

Pin a LEG and an ARM to one of the BACK PIECES (along the side seam), using the pattern markings to guide you.

 

TIP: PLEASE double-check that the fingers of the ARM point to the neck and the ‘toes’ of the LEG point to the tail. ALSO check that you have pinned 1 ARM and 1 LEG – they are very similar so it is very easy to get them muddled!

 

STEP 12b

Pin a TUMMY PIECE to the BACK PIECE (with the ARM and LEG in between).

 

STEP 12c

Sew the TUMMY PIECE to the BACK PIECE, sewing from K – F.  DON’T sew right to the edge of the fabric at F… you’ll see why next!

 

 

STEP 12d

Fold the TUMMY PIECE back at F, as shown on the pattern markings (with the fabric wrong sides together), and pin it in this position.

 

STEP 13

Repeat for the other side of the body (Pin and sew the other LEG and ARM in between the other BACK and TUMMY PIECE and fold the TUMMY PIECE back and pin it at F).m

 

TOP FIN:

STEP 14

Sew the TOP FIN PIECES together along the top curved edge, leaving the straight edge open. Clip the curved seams, turn the TOP FIN PIECES right sides out and pin them closed along the straight edge.

TIP: Use a wooden chopstick to turn the seams by running the end of the chopstick back and forth along the stitching inside the TOP FIN PIECES until the seam is nice and smooth.

STEP 15a

Pin the TOP FIN to one of the BACK PIECES, between G  and H, using the pattern marking to guide you.

TIP: I added an extra star pattern marking for you. Match these up to make sure you get the smaller part of the TOP FIN PIECE at the front.

 

 

STEP 15b

Sew the TOP FIN in place with a 3mm(⅛ inch) seam allowance. This is important because it will stop the TOP FIN from slipping as you sew the BACK PIECES together later.

 

LOWER FIN:

STEP 16a

Sew the LOWER FIN PIECES together along the bottom edge, leaving the top edge open. Clip the bottom seam of the LOWER FIN PIECES, turn them right sides out and smooth the seam with a turning tool.

 

 

STEP 16b

Pin the LOWER FIN PIECES closed along the open (top) edges.

 

STEP 17a

Pin the LOWER FIN to the BACK PIECE & TUMMY PIECE (the same ones as before) matching point F, and using the pattern marking to guide you.

 

STEP 17b

Sew the LOWER FIN in place, to the BACK & TUMMY PIECE with a 3mm/⅛inch seam allowance.

 

TOP & BOTTOM SEAMS

STEP 18a

Pin the BACK & TUMMY PIECES together (leave the ARMS and LEGS ‘dangling out’ of the body).

 

STEP 18b

Sew the BACK & TUMMY PIECES together from A at the top – around the tail tip – to M.

 

NECK SEAM:

STEP 19a

Pin the head to the body at the neck seam.

TIP: The easiest way to do this is to turn the head right sides out and position it inside the BACK & TUMMY PIECES so you can pin the pieces with the fabric right sides together. 

 

STEP 19b

Sew the head to the body, (sew the CHIN & FACE PIECES to the BACK & TUMMY PIECES), sewing from D – A – D. ****

 

****If the ARMS and LEGS get in the way, just ‘squish’ them and push them out of your way as you sew!
(See the IMPORTANT TIP below!)****

 

IMPORTANT TIP:

This seam WILL be hard to sew with the ARMS & LEGS already stuffed BUT keep telling yourself  –

it’s totally worth it…

because it will save you from having to hand sew 4 extra stuffing gaps closed (on the ARMS and LEGS!) 😁

PLEASE NOTE:

If you don’t mind the extra hand-sewing, you can leave a small stuffing gap on the ARMS & LEGS (and stuff them last, after the body is stuffed) to make sewing this seam easier, that’s totally OK! I just know from the feedback I get, that most people don’t like a lot of hand sewing! 

 

 

STEP 20

Pull the head back out of the body (so it is wrong sides out again). Push the ARMS up inside the head (see the blue arrow in the photo below) leaving the LEGS  ‘dangling out’ of the body. Pin and sew the Axolotl closed along the bottom from C – D (on the CHIN PIECES) and from D – O (on the TUMMY PIECES).

 

STEP 21

Pull gently on the ARMS to pull them out of the body then turn the rest of the axolotl right sides out through the stuffing gap (between O and M).

 

ASSEMBLY:

STEP 22

Stuff the tail first, using small bits of stuffing for the tail tip. Stuff the head area firmly next then finish stuffing the body/tummy of your Axolotl.

 

STEP 23

Using embroidery thread sew 2 long straight stitches, on the seam between the nostril darts and point B (in the middle) for the SMILE!

STEP 1: Go in through the stuffing gap and come out at B.
STEP 2: Sew in at the left nostril dart and come out at the right nostril dart.
STEP 3: Sew back in at B and come out just behind one of the GILLS.
STEP 4: Sew a knot and hide your thread end.

 

STEP 24

Sew the stuffing gaps closed on the TUMMY PIECES with a ladder stitch.

 

Your Axolotl is ready to LOVE!

 

 

Want to win a
FREE toy pattern?

 

It’s so EASY to enter our Pattern GIVEAWAY!

 

ALL you need to do is post a photo of a FUNKY FRIENDS FACTORY toy that you have made on the Funky Friends Factory Facebook Page .

At the end of each month I draw a winner and post the winner’s name on the Blog the following MONTH. I have an Album on Facebook for all the MAKEROFTHEMONTH winners. You can check it out HERE!

 

 

NOT on Facebook? ENTER by email! 😀

*** You can send me your photos by email too!

 

So come on! Share your photos ~>

The next winner could be YOU!!!

.
Till next time,

Happy Sewing,
Pauline
xxx