{"id":756,"date":"2019-10-07T00:19:22","date_gmt":"2019-10-07T00:19:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/see-how-to-sew-a-bee\/"},"modified":"2021-10-21T10:21:45","modified_gmt":"2021-10-21T10:21:45","slug":"see-how-to-sew-a-bee","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/see-how-to-sew-a-bee\/","title":{"rendered":"See how to sew a bee!"},"content":{"rendered":"

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my<\/strong> Bee\u00a0Pattern\u00a0~> scroll down for step-by-step photos!<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

I wanted to make a BIG, HAPPY, \u2018bumbly\u2019 Bee that you\u2019d just want to pick up and HUG! Bumble has some small bits like feelers so I\u2019d say this pattern is not great for a beginner… unless you desperately want a bee!<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Bee<\/span><\/p>\n

.<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here. <\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

It is <\/span>NOT A FREE PATTERN!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased my Bee Sewing Pattern<\/strong> can SEE how to sew a bee toy! (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Bumble the Bee Sewing Pattern)<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Let’s get started!<\/span><\/h1>\n
\n

STEP 1
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Choose some fabric for your bee toy – it doesn’t have to be yellow and black. Did you know Bees come in ALL different colours? We even have Australian bees that are BLUE! So go wild and make your Bee any colour you like!<\/p>\n

\"bee<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

HEAD:<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 2<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Use (paper) scissors to cut out the shape of the EYES<\/strong><\/span> in the template for the FACE PIECE<\/strong><\/span> so you can transfer the eye position markings onto the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric<\/span> of the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> If you want to sew the EYE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> on by machine you can sew them now. I like to sew the EYES on after I stuff the bee\u2019s head – so I can check I have them even.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 3
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Fold the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, fabric right sides together, and sew the face darts closed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 4
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the FACE PIECE<\/strong><\/span> together from A – B.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

FEELERS<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 5
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Trace the FEELER PIECE<\/strong><\/span> onto a double layer of fabric (with right sides together!). Sew the FEELER PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together on the sewing line.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 6
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Cut around the sewing line with a 3mm(\u00bc inch) seam allowance. Clip the seam allowance, especially where it is very curved then turn the FEELER <\/strong><\/span>PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> I have a blog post to show you my special trick for turning small soft toy pieces here<\/a><\/span><\/strong> on my blog.<\/p>\n

\"How<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 7a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the open edge closed…<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 7b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

…and pin them to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide. (The tip of the feelers must point to the side.<\/em>)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 8
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the FEELERS<\/strong><\/span> in position with a 3mm(\u215binch) seam allowance.<\/p>\n

*** This is a different fabric (I was sewing another Bee!) BUT it shows this step nicely! \ud83d\ude42<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

BACK HEAD<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 9
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from A – C, along the back seam.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 10
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, the FEELERS<\/strong><\/span> in between. Sew the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>. from D – A – D.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 11
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Turn the head right side out and tack\/baste the seam allowance of the FEELERS<\/strong><\/span> to the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span>. This will help them to stand up straight when you stuff the head later on. (You can use a safety pin to pin them like this instead.)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

ARMS<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 12
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the ARM PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 13
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Clip the curved seams really well and turn the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> right sides out. Use the chopstick again to turn out the seams nicely. Stuff the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> with toy stuffing, leaving the top 12mm (\u00bdinch) unstuffed and pin
\nthe open edges closed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 14a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide you… and sew them in position with a 3mm(\u215binch) seam allowance.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 14b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

… and sew them in position with a 3mm(\u215binch) seam allowance.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong>This is what the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> should look like when you flop the downwards – “thumbs to the middle!)
\n<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

THORAX<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 15
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the THORAX 1 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from B- G.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> Don\u2019t muddle the THORAX 1<\/strong><\/span> and THORAX 2<\/strong><\/span>, they ARE different!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 16a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the THORAX 1 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE & BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> with the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> in between, (matching points E and B).<\/p>\n

* The blue dashed line in the photo below shows you where you will sew!<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 16b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the THORAX 1 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE & BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, from E – B – E.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> This is a difficult seam to sew, take it slow, or do one side at a time!<\/p>\n

THIS is what the PIECES will look like now.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 17
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the\u00a0 THORAX 2 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from G – J.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 18
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the THORAX 2 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the THORAX 1 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from F – G – F.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

LEGS<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 19a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew and stuff the LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> in the same way as the ARMS<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 19b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

The LEGS are pinned DIFFERENTLY!<\/strong> <\/em><\/p>\n

Fold the LEGS PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, as shown on the pattern markings, so that the seams are together in the centre and pin them closed at the top. (This is so that the feet will face forwards.)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> I KNOW bees have 6 legs, but hey, real bees also have a sting that hurts! \ud83d\ude42<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 20
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the LEGS<\/strong><\/span> to the THORAX 2 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide you and sew them in position with a 3mm(\u215binch) seam allowance.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> THIS is what the PIECES will look like now.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

ABDOMEN<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 21
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the ABDOMEN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from K – L and from L – J.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 22
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the ABDOMEN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> (with the fabric right sides together) at the end dart, matching points L and sew the end dart closed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> Do not sew the ABDOMEN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from H and K. We need to leave the PIECES <\/strong><\/span>open at the top so it\u2019s easier to sew them together with the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> and LEGS<\/strong><\/span> in
\nplace. (The black arrow is pointing to the end dart in the picture below.)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 23
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin AND sew the ABDOMEN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the THORAX 2 PIECES<\/strong><\/span> (with the LEGS<\/strong><\/span> in between).<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 24a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pull the head out of the body. Pin and sew the Bee closed along the back of the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/span><\/strong>, sew from C – E.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 24b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pull the LEGS<\/strong><\/span> out of the Bee\u2019s body, pin the ABDOMEN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> closed (so the LEGS<\/strong><\/span> are on the outside of the body) and sew from H – K.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

ASSEMBLY<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 25
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Turn the bee right sides out through the gap left on the THORAX PIECES<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 26
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Stuff your bee very firmly! You want him to have a nice firm ROUNDED<\/em><\/span> shape!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 27
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the stuffing gap closed using a ladder stitch.<\/p>\n

\"How<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

FACE<\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 28
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Use the photos below to guide you embroidering a mouth.Sew in to the FACE<\/strong><\/span> at A and come out at B. Sew in at C and back out at B. Sew in at A and come out a C, to create the \u201csmile\u201d. Pull the thread firmly, so it lies in the seam of the mouth darts. Finish off with a knot at C.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 29
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Cut the EYE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from black(dark) felt and the PUPILS<\/strong><\/span> from white (light) felt and the CHEEK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from pink felt. Sew (or glue) the PUPILS<\/strong><\/span> to the EYES PIECES<\/strong><\/span> then pin the EYE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> on the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide you. Pin the CHEEKS<\/strong><\/span> in position at the end of the mouth dart. When you are happy with their position, sew the EYES<\/strong><\/span> and CHEEKS<\/strong><\/span> in place
\nwith a blanket stitch, hiding the starting and finishing knots under the felt.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> I added the CHEEKS<\/strong><\/span> to cover the dimples at the end of the mouth dart. You can make these any contrasting colour of your choosing, or leave them off.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 30a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Trace the WING PIECE<\/strong><\/span> onto the wrong side of the wing fabric. (This is the sewing line.)<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 30b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the WING<\/strong><\/span> fabric with right sides facing on top of the piece of batting and sew through all 3 layers, on the sewing line you traced.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 30c
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Trim the 3 layers, leaving 3mm (\u215b inch) outside the sewing line, and clip the seam well to help the WINGS<\/strong><\/span> turn nicely.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 30d
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Turn the WINGS<\/strong> through the turning gap. Tuck the seam allowance under (in) and hand sew the turning gap closed.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 31a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Use a fabric pen, or tailor\u2019s chalk to draw where to sew the topstitch lines on the WINGS<\/strong>, using the pattern markings to guide you.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 31b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the topstitch lines with a slightly longer than normal stitch as you are sewing through a lot of layers!<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

STEP 31c
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew or glue the WINGS<\/strong><\/span> to the THORAX PIECES<\/strong><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> You can make the WINGS<\/strong><\/span> removable by using velcro to attach them!<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Your Bumble Bee is ready to LOVE!<\/em><\/span><\/h1>\n

Come join the fun on Facebook!<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

\"Facebook
\n
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

I LOVE to see how your Funky Friends toys turn out! <\/strong><\/span>
\n
\n<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

When you’ve made your own stuffed toy bees you can come show them off ~><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Post a photo on my<\/span> Funky Friends Factory Facebook page<\/span><\/a><\/strong> for me to see and YOU could<\/span> win a FREE PATTERN!<\/strong><\/span><\/a><\/p>\n


\"Pauline<\/p>\n

Till next time,<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Happy Sewing, <\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

Pauline<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my Bee\u00a0Pattern\u00a0~> scroll down for step-by-step photos! I wanted to make a BIG, HAPPY, \u2018bumbly\u2019 Bee that you\u2019d just want to pick up and HUG! Bumble has some small bits like feelers so I\u2019d say this pattern is not great for a beginner… […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-756","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/756","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=756"}],"version-history":[{"count":4,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/756\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":22387,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/756\/revisions\/22387"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=756"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}