{"id":29651,"date":"2023-06-25T13:08:33","date_gmt":"2023-06-25T13:08:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/?page_id=29651"},"modified":"2024-12-09T08:50:53","modified_gmt":"2024-12-09T08:50:53","slug":"gills","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/gills\/","title":{"rendered":"Axolotl Photo tutorial – How to sew a soft toy Axolotl!"},"content":{"rendered":"

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my NEW Axolotl Pattern<\/strong>\u00a0~> scroll down for step-by-step photos!<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here.
\nIt is NOT A FREE PATTERN.<\/span><\/p>\n

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased the pattern can SEE how to sew an Axolotl toy (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Aristotle Axolotl sewing pattern!)<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

First choose some fabric…<\/span><\/h2>\n

You can sew Aristotle Axolotl<\/strong> from most fabrics…
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

AND you can
\nuse any colour!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Right, let’s get sewing!<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

HEAD:<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 1
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together along the middle seam, from A – B.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 2
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Fold the FACE PIECE<\/strong>S<\/strong><\/span> with the fabric right sides together, and sew the nostril darts closed.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> I used a dark thread for this tutorial so you can SEE my stitching BUT it’s best to use a thread the same colour as your fabric to hide your stitching (so the stitching of the seams blends in!)!<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 3
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from B – C, along the front seam. (Don\u2019t sew between C and D –\u00a0 you need to leave the seam open there so it\u2019s easy to sew the neck seam later!<\/strong>)
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 4a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> matching points E (on the sides) and B (at the front).
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>These curves look like they won’t fit together because they are different \/ opposite shapes (opposing curves). Don\u2019t worry – just take it SLOWLY and use LOTS of pins! <\/strong>Start by pinning the pieces together at B (in the front) and E (on each side), then add pins in between. You’ll see they do fit!<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 4b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from E – B – E.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> This seam forms the shape of the Axolotl’s SMILE ~> clip it very well so the seam lies nice and smoothly. \ud83d\ude0a<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 5a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Fold the CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> with the fabric right sides together, and pin the chin darts closed.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 5b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the chin darts closed.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

EYES:<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 6
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

If you are using CRAFT EYES<\/strong><\/span> insert these now.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> I have a tutorial to show you how to insert craft eyes<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/a> on my blog.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"craft-eyes-tutorial-How-to-insert\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

GILLS:<\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 7a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the GILL PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the neck seam edge open.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 7b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Clip the seams well where they are really curved, especially if you are using a woven (non-stretchy) fabric like quilting cottons, then turn the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> right sides out.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong>I like to use a wooden chopstick to turn the seams. Run the end of the chopstick back and forth along the stitching inside the GILLS <\/strong><\/span>until the seam is nice and smooth.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 8a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

\u00a0<\/span>Pin the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> so that the edge seam lies flat then stitch around the edge of the GILLS<\/strong><\/span>, 5mm ( \u00bcinch) in from the edge.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

TIP:<\/strong> Please don’t leave out this step – it is\u00a0<\/span>VERY IMPORTANT<\/strong><\/span> –\u00a0because it stops the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> from flopping!!!\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n


\n\"\"
\n<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

<\/h1>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 8b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Stuff the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> with a very small amount of toy stuffing – use just enough so they are not flat (but NOT too FAT or it will be hard to sew them in place). Pin the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> closed along the neck seam edge.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 9a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE & CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0along the neck seam, using the pattern markings to guide you with their position.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 9b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

STOP!!!!!<\/strong> Please double-check that you have the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> pinned the right way up – on both sides – before you sew them in place!<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Don’t sew 1
\nupside down ~><\/span><\/p>\n

like I did!<\/span><\/strong> \ud83d\ude02<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 9c
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> in place with a 3mm(\u215b inch) seam allowance. (This will stop the GILLS<\/strong><\/span> slipping when you sew the neck seam later).
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

ARMS:<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 10a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the ARM PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 10b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Clip the seam allowance especially where it is very curved between the \u2018fingers\u2019, and turn the ARM PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong>Use a turning tool \/ chopstick again to turn the seams out nicely.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 10c
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Stuff the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> and pin them closed at the straight edge.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

LEGS:<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 11a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the straight edge open.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 11b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Clip the seams, especially where they are very curved between the \u2018toes\u2019, and turn the LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out. (Use the chopstick \/ turning tool again to turn the seams nicely). Stuff the LEGS<\/strong><\/span> and pin them closed at the straight edge.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

BODY – ONE SIDE AT A TIME!<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 12a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin a LEG<\/strong><\/span> and an ARM<\/strong><\/span> to one of the BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0(along the side seam), using the pattern markings to guide you.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

TIP:<\/strong> PLEASE double-check<\/strong> that the fingers of the ARM<\/strong><\/span> point to the neck and the \u2018toes\u2019 of the LEG<\/strong><\/span> point to the tail. ALSO check that you have pinned 1 ARM<\/strong><\/span> and 1 LEG<\/strong><\/span> – they are very similar so it is very easy to get them muddled!<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 12b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin a TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the BACK PIECE<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0(with the ARM<\/strong><\/span> and LEG<\/strong><\/span> in between).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 12c
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the BACK PIECE<\/strong><\/span>, sewing from K – F.\u00a0 DON’T sew right to the edge of the fabric at F… you\u2019ll see why next!<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 12d
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Fold the TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> back at F, as shown on the pattern markings (with the fabric wrong sides together), and pin it in this position.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 13
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Repeat for the other side of the body (Pin and sew the other LEG<\/strong><\/span> and ARM<\/strong><\/span> in between the other BACK<\/strong><\/span> and TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> and fold the TUMMY PIECE back and pin it at F).m<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

TOP FIN:<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 14
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the TOP FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together along the top curved edge, leaving the straight edge open. Clip the curved seams, turn the TOP FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out and pin them closed along the straight edge.<\/span><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong><\/span>Use a wooden chopstick to turn the seams by running the end of the chopstick back and forth along the stitching inside the TOP FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> until the seam is nice and smooth.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 15a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the TOP FIN<\/strong><\/span> to one of the BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, between G\u00a0 and H, using the pattern marking to guide you.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong><\/span>I added an extra star pattern marking for you. Match these up to make sure you get the smaller part of the TOP FIN PIECE<\/strong><\/span> at the front.
\n<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/span>\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 15b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the TOP FIN<\/strong><\/span> in place with a 3mm(\u215b inch) seam allowance. This is important because it will stop the TOP FIN<\/span> from slipping as you sew the BACK PIECES<\/span> together later.<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

LOWER FIN:<\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 16a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the LOWER FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together along the bottom edge, leaving the top edge open. Clip the bottom seam of the LOWER FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, turn them right sides out and smooth the seam with a turning tool. <\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 16b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the LOWER FIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span> closed along the open (top) edges.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 17a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the LOWER FIN<\/strong><\/span> to the BACK PIECE & <\/strong><\/span>TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> (the same ones as before) matching point F, and using the pattern marking to guide you.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 17b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the LOWER FIN<\/strong><\/span> in place, to the BACK & TUMMY PIECE<\/strong><\/span> with a 3mm\/\u215binch seam allowance.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

TOP & BOTTOM SEAMS<\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 18a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the BACK & TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together (leave the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> and LEGS<\/strong><\/span> ‘dangling out’ of the body).
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/h1>\n

STEP 18b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the BACK & TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from A at the top – around the tail tip – to M.
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

NECK SEAM:<\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 19a
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pin the head to the body at the neck seam.<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

TIP: <\/strong>The easiest way to do this is to turn the head right sides out and position it inside the BACK & TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span> so you can pin the pieces with the fabric right sides together.\u00a0<\/span><\/span>
\n<\/span>
\n<\/span><\/span>\"\"<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

STEP 19b
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the head to the body, (sew the CHIN & FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the BACK & TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span>), sewing from D – A – D. ****<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

****If the ARMS<\/span> and LEGS<\/span> get in the way, just ‘squish’ them and push them out of your way as you sew!
\n(See the IMPORTANT TIP below!<\/span><\/span>)****<\/span><\/strong><\/span>
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\n

IMPORTANT TIP<\/span>:<\/span><\/strong><\/h2>\n

This seam WILL be hard to sew with the ARMS & LEGS<\/strong><\/span> already stuffed BUT keep telling yourself\u00a0 –<\/span><\/p>\n

it’s totally worth it…<\/span><\/p>\n

because it will save you from having to hand sew<\/span> 4 extra stuffing gaps closed (on the ARMS and LEGS<\/span>!)<\/span> \ud83d\ude01<\/p>\n

PLEASE NOTE<\/span>:<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

If you don’t mind the extra hand-sewing, you can leave a small stuffing gap on the ARMS & LEGS<\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/span> (and stuff them last, after the body is stuffed) to make sewing this seam easier, that’s totally OK! I just know from the feedback I get, that most people don’t like a lot of hand sewing!\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 20
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pull the head back out of the body (so it is wrong sides out again). Push the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> up inside the head (see the blue arrow in the photo below) leaving the LEGS<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0 ‘dangling out’ of the body. Pin and sew the Axolotl closed along the bottom from C – D (on the CHIN PIECES<\/strong><\/span>) and from D – O (on the TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span>).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 21
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Pull gently on the ARMS<\/strong><\/span> to pull them out of the body then turn the rest of the axolotl right sides out through the stuffing gap (between O and M).<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

ASSEMBLY:<\/span><\/h2>\n
\n

STEP 22
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Stuff the tail first, using small bits of stuffing for the tail tip. Stuff the head area firmly next then finish stuffing the body\/tummy of your Axolotl.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 23
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Using embroidery thread sew 2 long straight stitches, on the seam between the nostril darts and point B (in the middle) for the SMILE!
\n<\/span><\/p>\n

STEP 1<\/span>: Go in through the stuffing gap and come out at B.<\/span><\/strong>
\nSTEP 2<\/span>: Sew in at the left nostril dart and come out at the right nostril dart.<\/span><\/strong>
\nSTEP 3<\/span>: Sew back in at B and come out just behind one of the GILLS.<\/span><\/strong>
\nSTEP 4:<\/span>\u00a0Sew a knot and hide your thread end.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

\n

STEP 24
\n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

Sew the stuffing gaps closed on the TUMMY PIECES<\/strong><\/span> with a ladder stitch.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

 <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Your <\/strong><\/em><\/span>Axolotl is ready to LOVE!<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Want to win a
\nFREE toy pattern?<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

It’s so EASY to enter our Pattern GIVEAWAY! <\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Facebook<\/p>\n

ALL you need to do is post a photo<\/strong> of a FUNKY FRIENDS FACTORY toy that you have made<\/strong> on the<\/span> Funky Friends Factory Facebook Page<\/strong> <\/a><\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

At the end of each month I draw a winner and post the winner’s name on the Blog the following MONTH. <\/strong>I have an Album on Facebook<\/strong> for all the MAKEROFTHEMONTH winners<\/strong>. You can check it out<\/span> HERE!<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

NOT on Facebook? ENTER by email! \ud83d\ude00<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

*** You can send me your photos by email too<\/a><\/strong><\/span>!<\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

So come on! Share your photos ~> <\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

<\/h2>\n

The next winner could be YOU!!!<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n


\"Pauline.<\/span>
\nTill next time,<\/span><\/p>\n

Happy Sewing,
\nPauline
\n<\/span><\/strong>xxx<\/span>
\n\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my NEW Axolotl Pattern\u00a0~> scroll down for step-by-step photos! *** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL *** The FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here. It is NOT A FREE PATTERN. I have made this photo tutorial so people who have […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-29651","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/29651","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=29651"}],"version-history":[{"count":130,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/29651\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":35689,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/29651\/revisions\/35689"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=29651"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}