{"id":26555,"date":"2022-09-07T06:16:54","date_gmt":"2022-09-07T06:16:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/?page_id=26555"},"modified":"2024-08-01T02:46:20","modified_gmt":"2024-08-01T02:46:20","slug":"dressed-teddy-bear","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/dressed-teddy-bear\/","title":{"rendered":"How to make a memory bear from clothes"},"content":{"rendered":"

I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my Best Dressed Bear Pattern. <\/strong>This is a pattern for a memory bear pattern with built-in shirt & pants (trousers) details. This teddy bear pattern lets you use pre-loved, clothing items to create a memory bear OR use all new fabrics with the included collar, cuffs & bow tie pattern pieces! PLUS the pattern for the felt waistcoat is included! He\u2019s conveniently sized to fit an adult collared shirt – a perfect \u201cgrandpa\u201d or \u201cdad\u201d bear. <\/span><\/p>\n

\u00a0~>\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>Scroll down for
\nstep-by-step photos!<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\n

*** PLEASE NOTE – this is ONLY a PHOTO TUTORIAL ***<\/strong><\/span>
\nThe\u00a0FULL PATTERN IS NOT included here.
\nIt is NOT A FREE PATTERN.<\/span><\/p>\n

I have made this photo tutorial so people who have purchased the pattern can SEE how to sew a dressed memory bear from clothes (I wanted to explain this so you are not disappointed if you have found this page via a search engine and not from the link in my Buttons Best Dressed Bear pattern!)<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

 <\/p>\n

First choose some fabric…<\/span><\/h2>\n

Buttons Bear can be sewn in most fabrics. I created this Best Dressed Teddy Bear Pattern\u00a0<\/strong> with memory bears in mind so you can use any clothing items – see the question below if you are making a memory bear from clothing. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Must you use interfacing for a memory bear?<\/span><\/h2>\n

Use interfacing to line fabrics that are thin and very stretchy. This allows you to mix different types of fabrics. <\/span><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

How to line a memory bear with interfacing:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n
  1. Trace all of the PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, including all the \u2018reversed pieces\u2019, onto the smooth (NON-STICKY) side of the iron-on interfacing.<\/span><\/li>\n
  2. Cut out the interfacing pieces, adding about 3mm (\u215b inch) around them.<\/span><\/li>\n
  3. Iron the interfacing pieces onto the fabric of the clothing items, with the glue (STICKY) side facing the BACK of the fabric.<\/span><\/li>\n
  4. Cut out all the pieces on the traced outer line.<\/span><\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

    \"\"<\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Embroider some special details!<\/span><\/h2>\n

    Buttons has FOOT PAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> with a large flat area for embroidery – great for <\/span>adding names & dates to a memory bear!<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    How to embroider a memory bear:<\/span><\/h2>\n

    You can embroider by hand or machine. Use the 4 inch (10cm) grid markings on the FOOT PAD PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to centre the embroidery design.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n


    \n<\/span>\"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    With machine embroidery – do this FIRST…<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    … BEFORE<\/strong> you cut out the FOOT PAD PIECES<\/span><\/strong><\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Right, let’s get sewing!<\/em><\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    FACE & EARS:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 1
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from A – B.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    \n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 2a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the EAR PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the bottom edge open.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 2b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Clip the seam allowance of the EARS<\/span><\/strong> very well, turn them right sides out.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I like to use a wooden chopstick to turn the seams. Run the end of the stick back and forth along the stitching inside the EAR PIECES<\/strong><\/span> until the seam is nice and smooth.\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 2c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the EARS<\/strong><\/span> closed along the open edge. *** Please DON\u2019T stuff the EARS or they will look like 2 blobs instead of cute little cups! ***<\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 3a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the EARS<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0using the pattern markings to guide you.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> The front side of the EARS<\/strong><\/span> must be pinned touching the FACE PIECES. (In this bear, the black stripey fabric is on the front of the EARS<\/strong><\/span> and the spotty fabric is on the back of the EARS<\/strong><\/span>).<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 3b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the EARS<\/strong><\/span> in place with a 3mm seam allowance.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    NOSE & MUZZLE:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 4
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the NOSE PIECE<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0with the fabric right sides together and sew the nose darts closed as shown on the pattern markings.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> Use a matching thread to sew the nose so you won\u2019t see the stitches on your finished bear.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 5
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the NOSE PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the MUZZLE PIECE<\/strong><\/span> along the nose seam, with the fabric right sides together, and sew from D – C – D.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:\u00a0<\/strong><\/span>If you are using interfacing or thick fabrics this seam can be hard to sew. It helps a LOT if you tack (baste) the seam with a hand stitch, so you can remove the pins before you sew the nose seam.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 6
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the NOSE & MUZZLE<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, from E – B – E.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> Take your time and use LOTS of pins!<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 7
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the NOSE, MUZZLE & FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> closed from K – E – D – T.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    BACK HEAD:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 8
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from A – F.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 9
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the FACE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from G – A – G, with the EARS<\/strong><\/span> in between.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    CRAFT EYES:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 10
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    If you are using CRAFT EYES<\/strong><\/span>, insert them now. (If you are hand embroidering the eyes, you will sew them after he is stuffed.)<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I have a tutorial to show you how to insert craft eyes<\/span><\/span><\/strong><\/a> on my blog.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"craft-eyes-tutorial-How-to-insert\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    PLACKET:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 11a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    PLEASE NOTE<\/span>:<\/span><\/span>
    \n<\/span><\/strong> I have included full instructions for making the PLACKET<\/span><\/span><\/strong> from scratch.
    \nYou can skip STEP 11a – 11b and cut <\/span><\/strong>a length of placket from a man\u2019s collared shirt to use instead!<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Fold the side edges of the PLACKET PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the center with the WRONG<\/strong> sides of the fabric together. <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 11b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Iron the PLACKET<\/strong><\/span> so the layers stay folded in this position and mark the button positions on the RIGHT<\/strong> side of the fabric of the PLACKET PIECE<\/strong><\/span>.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 12a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    If you are using a man’s shirt… cut a length of placket and mark the button positions on this.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong>\u00a0 If you cut the piece of placket from the bottom of the placket (below all the buttons) – you will get a piece without any buttons\/button holes on it.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 12b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the PLACKET<\/strong><\/span> to the SHIRT FRONT PIECE<\/strong><\/span> with a 3mm(\u215b inch) seam allowance.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 12c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew 3 buttons to the PLACKET & SHIRT<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide you.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    SLEEVES & HANDS:<\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 13a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the SLEEVE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the HAND PIECES<\/strong><\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 13b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the SLEEVE & HAND PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving them open at the top and leaving the gap open for turning (see the black arrow in the photo below).<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 13c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Clip the seam allowance, turn the SLEEVE & HAND PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out and use a chopstick to smooth the seams.\u00a0 <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 13d
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the SLEEVE PIECES<\/strong><\/span>, as shown on the pattern markings, so that the seams line up in the middle (center), and pin the SLEEVES<\/strong><\/span> closed at the top.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    SHIRT FRONT & BACK:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 14a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the SLEEVE PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the SHIRT FRONT PIECES<\/strong><\/span> using the pattern markings to guide you. Sew them in place with a 3mm(\u215b inch) seam allowance so they won\u2019t slip as you sew.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong>\u00a0 PLEASE check that the stuffing gaps on the SLEEVES<\/strong><\/span> are facing the back (NOT facing\/touching the SHIRT FRONT PIECE<\/strong><\/span>) so you don’t sew\u00a0the arms on backwards! <\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 14b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the SHIRT BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the SHIRT FRONT PIECE<\/strong><\/span> from G – N, with the SLEEVES<\/strong><\/span> in between.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong>\u00a0 It’s easy to get the sew the SHIRT BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> the wrong way round! PLEASE double-check that you have matched up the letters of the pattern markings correctly!
    \n<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 14c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    If the toy is for a young child, go back and zig-zag across the top of the SLEEVES<\/strong><\/span> to make them nice and secure.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    PANTS(TROUSERS):<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 15
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the INNER LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the PANTS FRONT PIECE<\/strong><\/span> matching the single dot pattern markings.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 16a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the OUTER LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the PANTS BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> matching the double dots pattern markings.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 16b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the PANTS BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together from P – M.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 17a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the PANTS FRONT & INNER LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the PANTS BACK & OUTER LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from U – R (along the top of the legs and up the side seams).<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> Clip the very curved parts of the seams very well so the seams turn nice and smoothly.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 17b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the PANTS & LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> closed along the bottom, from V – M – V.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    FOOT PADS:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 18
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the FOOT PAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the LEG PIECES<\/strong><\/span> matching U, V and X.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> Use lots of pins and take it slow! I have a blog post about sewing perfect plushie feet without any wrinkles! ~> Click HERE to check it out!<\/strong><\/a><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"How<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    WAIST SEAM:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 19
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the SHIRT PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the PANTS PIECES<\/strong><\/span> along the waist seam, from Q – L – Q.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    PLEASE NOTE:<\/u><\/b><\/span>
    \nThe side seams of the shirt and pants do not line up<\/span>. The seam at R on the pants matches up with point R on the shirt, not with the seam of the shirt at N.<\/span><\/h2>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I find the easiest way to pin the waist seam is to turn the SHIRT PIECES<\/strong><\/span> upside down<\/span><\/strong><\/span> and position them ‘inside’ the PANTS PIECES<\/strong><\/span> with the fabric right sides together. Pin the bottom of the SHIRT FRONT & PLACKET<\/strong><\/span> to the top of the PANTS FRONT PIECE<\/strong><\/span> at L first, then p<\/span>in the pieces together at Q at the back and then pin the rest of the waist seam (in between these pins).<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

    \n<\/blockquote>\n

    SEW THE HEAD TO THE BODY(NECK SEAM):<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 20
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the head to the body at the neck seam. (Pin the FACE & BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> to the SHIRT PIECES<\/strong><\/span>.)<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I find the easiest way to pin the neck seam is to turn the head right sides out first then push the head (top first) into the body. Pin the pieces together at the neck seam, with the fabric right sides together.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    BACK SEAM:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 21
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pull the HEAD<\/strong><\/span> back out of the body so the PIECES<\/strong><\/span> are wrong sides out again. Pin and sew the bear closed at the back from P- Q – S on the PANTS & SHIRT BACK <\/strong><\/span>PIECES<\/strong><\/span> and from H – F on the BACK HEAD PIECES<\/strong><\/span> (leaving the gap open for turning).<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 22
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Turn the bear right sides out through the stuffing gap. Stuff the NOSE<\/strong><\/span> and MUZZLE<\/strong><\/span> firmly, then the rest of the head. Stuff the foot area well then the legs and body. Lastly stuff the arms. If you are hand embroidering the eyes, sew them now.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 23
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the stuffing gaps on the SLEEVES<\/strong><\/span> and SHIRT BACK PIECES<\/strong><\/span> closed with a ladder stitch. <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    FELT WAISTCOAT:<\/span><\/h2>\n

    THIS MUST<\/span> GO ON BEFORE<\/span> THE COLLAR!<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 24a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Cut out the WAISTCOAT PIECES<\/strong><\/span> from felt – if you have a big enough piece of felt you can cut the WAISTCOAT<\/strong><\/span> as ONE<\/strong> piece.
    \n<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 24b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew the WAISTCOAT PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together at the back centre seam.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 24c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the seam open and sew it down on either side of the seam.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 25
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Sew 3 buttons on one side of the WAISTCOAT<\/strong><\/span> – see the pattern markings for placement. Pin the WAISTCOAT<\/strong><\/span> on Buttons and hand-sew (or glue) it together where the pieces overlap under the arms and at the buttons.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    COLLAR:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 26a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    PLEASE NOTE<\/span>:<\/span>
    \nI have included full instructions for making the COLLAR<\/span><\/span> from scratch.\u00a0<\/span>
    \nIf you are going to cut the collar from a man\u2019s collared shirt you can skip STEPS 26a – 27b.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Make sure to cut the COLLAR PIECES<\/strong><\/span> on a fold<\/strong>. Line only 1 COLLAR PIECE<\/strong><\/span> with iron-on interfacing. (I found that lining both COLLAR PIECES<\/strong><\/span> made the collar too hard to turn). Sew the COLLAR PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together leaving the turning gap open (see the black arrow in the photo below).<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 26b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Trim the seams at the corners and turn the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span> right sides out.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I use a wooden chopstick to \u2018poke\u2019 out the corners so they are nice and pointy!<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 26c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Tuck the seams in at the turning gap and sew right around the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span> 5mm(\u00bcinch) in from the outer edge.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 27a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span> as shown in the pattern markings and press(iron) it. Sew a button on one side the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span>\u00a0 and a button hole on the other side and put the collar on the bear.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

    TIP:<\/strong> I can’t sew button holes so I hand-sewed the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span> on BUT you can use velcro or ‘snaps’ to close it instead.<\/span><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 27b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Lift up the COLLAR<\/strong><\/span> at the back and sew the inner layers to the bear to make sure it’s nice and secure!<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    CUFFS:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 28a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    PLEASE NOTE<\/span>:<\/span>
    \nI have included full instructions for making the CUFFS<\/span><\/span>\u00a0from scratch.\u00a0<\/span>
    \nIf you are going to cut the cuffs from a man\u2019s collared shirt you can skip STEPS 28a – 28d.<\/span><\/strong><\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Sew the CUFF PIECES<\/strong><\/span> together in pairs, leaving the gaps for turning (see the black arrow in the photo below).<\/span> <\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 28b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Trim the seams at the corners and turn the CUFF PIECES<\/strong><\/span> right sides out. Tuck the seams in at the turning gap and sew right around the CUFFS<\/strong><\/span><\/span> 5mm(\u00bcinch) in from the outer edge.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 29a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Press the CUFFS<\/strong><\/span> flat then fold them ‘in half lengthwise’ using the pattern markings to guide you and press again. Sew a button on one side of each CUFF<\/strong><\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 29b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Put the\u00a0CUFFS<\/strong><\/span> on your bear and hand-sew them closed. Sew through all the layers so the buttons look like cuff links!<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 29c
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold back the outer layers and stitch the inner layers to the bear. (If you really hate hand-sewing you can glue them in position with fabric glue!)<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    BOW TIE:<\/span><\/h2>\n
    \n

    STEP 30a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the BOW TIE PIECE<\/strong><\/span>, sew it together along the long sides. Turn it right sides out and press it flat so the seam is at the back.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 30b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the open edges of the BOW TIE PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the centre so they overlap by about 12mm(\u00bdinch) and tack(baste) the edges to hold them in this position.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 31a
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Fold the sides of the BAND PIECE<\/strong><\/span> to the centre and fold it in half again then press it flat.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    STEP 31b
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Wrap the BAND<\/strong><\/span> around the BOW TIE<\/strong><\/span> so it overlaps at the back by about 12mm(\u00bdinch) and tack(baste) to hold it in this position.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    \n

    STEP 32
    \n<\/span><\/strong><\/h1>\n

    Pin the BOW TIE<\/strong><\/span> on Buttons then hand-sew (or glue) it\u00a0in place.<\/span><\/p>\n

    \"\"<\/p>\n

     <\/p><\/blockquote>\n

    Your <\/strong><\/em><\/span>teddy bear is ready to LOVE!<\/strong><\/em><\/span><\/h2>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Want to win a
    \nFREE toy pattern?<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    It’s so EASY to enter our Pattern GIVEAWAY! <\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

    \u00a0<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

    \"Facebook<\/p>\n

    ALL you need to do is post a photo<\/strong> of a FUNKY FRIENDS FACTORY toy that you have made<\/strong> on the<\/span> Funky Friends Factory Facebook Page<\/strong> <\/a><\/span>.<\/span><\/p>\n

    At the end of each month I draw a winner and post the winner’s name on the Blog the following MONTH. <\/strong>I have an Album on Facebook<\/strong> for all the MAKEROFTHEMONTH winners<\/strong>. You can check it out<\/span> HERE!<\/a><\/strong><\/span><\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    NOT on Facebook? ENTER by email!\u00a0<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

    *** You can send me your photos by email too<\/a><\/strong><\/span>!<\/span><\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    So come on! Share your photos \u00a0~> <\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

    <\/h2>\n

    The next winner could be YOU!!!<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n


    \"Pauline.<\/span>
    \nTill next time,<\/span><\/p>\n

    Happy Sewing,
    \nPauline
    \n<\/span><\/strong>xxx<\/span>
    \n\"\"<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

    I made this photo tutorial so you can see how to sew my Best Dressed Bear Pattern. This is a pattern for a memory bear pattern with built-in shirt & pants (trousers) details. This teddy bear pattern lets you use pre-loved, clothing items to create a memory bear OR use all new fabrics with the […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","template":"","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"class_list":["post-26555","page","type-page","status-publish","hentry"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/26555","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/3"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=26555"}],"version-history":[{"count":77,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/26555\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":34071,"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/26555\/revisions\/34071"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/blog.funkyfriendsfactory.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=26555"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}